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By Morris Stockholm
The Shirt Collars Guide
When it comes to shirts, most choices are straightforward enough, linen in summer, poplin for the office; plain white or something a bit more sprezzatura. But collars? That’s where things get interesting. Or confusing. Sometimes both.
Shirt collars do more than just frame your face, they frame your entire outfit. And while choosing one often comes down to personal taste, each collar shape carries its own subtle codes. To help you navigate the options, we’ve broken down the four key collar styles we swear by at Morris Stockholm, and how to wear each one well.
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Casual by nature, but smarter than it lets on.
Button-Down Collar
Originally favoured by Ivy League athletes, once the preserve of polo players (literally – that’s where it started) and now a mainstay in any well-dressed man’s wardrobe. The buttons keep the collar neat, even when your day isn’t.
Pair it with: A knitted tie and blazer for effortless smart-casual or chinos or denim for laid-back weekends
Avoid if: you’re going full black tie. But then again, you knew that.
Slim spread and height, buttons, soft interlining
Collarpoints 8cm
Collarspread 8cm
This is the collar you reach for when you want to look put-together – without looking like you tried too hard.
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Somewhere between not-trying and knowing exactly what you’re doing
Normal Collar
No buttons, no drama – just a straight-up, classic collar with clean lines and no fuss. Not as formal as a cutaway, but not quite as off-duty as a button-down either. A reliable in-betweener.
Perfect with: A crew neck jumper layered on top or simply worn open, no tie required
Avoid if: You want a statement – this one is deliberately quiet.
It’s the kind of collar that plays well with others – and doesn’t demand too much attention.
Medium spread and height, buttons, soft interlining
Collarpoints 7 cm
Collarspread 9cm
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The Cutaway Collar
The boldest of the bunch -Wide. Confident. Made for the tie.
With its wide spread and formal leanings, the cutaway is made for ties (the bigger the knot, the better). But it’s not all business, worn right, it can look surprisingly contemporary, especially under a soft-shouldered blazer.
Best for: dressing to impress, job interviews, weddings, and the occasional dinner. A silk tie and structured suit or a fine-gauge roll neck layered beneath for a modern twist.
Avoid if: you like to keep things low-key – this collar makes an entrance.
The Cutaway collar is your sharpest option – designed with a generous spread that frames a tie knot perfectly. It's dressy, yes, but never stiff. A true favourite for tailoring enthusiasts and those who believe in the power of a good knot.
Wide spread and height, buttons, soft interlining
Collarpoints 9,3cm
Collar spread 16cm
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The Dressed Button-Down
Like the button-down’s older, more polished sibling.
Our Dressed Button-Down offers the charm of a button-down with a sharper, more refined cut. The collar sits beautifully beneath a blazer and was made with a tie in mind – making it ideal for formal settings where a little ease is still welcome.
Ideal for: Suiting up without feeling too stiff, or when you want your shirt to do a little more heavy lifting. A tailored two-piece or unstructured jacket, Business lunches or evening events
Avoid if: you’re after something super casual – this one’s got places to be.
It’s the perfect bridge between classic tailoring and modern versatility.
Slim spread and height, buttons, soft interlining
Collarpoints 9,3cm
Collar spread 9,5cm
Final Notes
Collars may seem like a small detail, but at Morris Stockholm, we see them as part of the bigger picture. Whether you’re dressing up or down, let your collar lead the way.
Discover our full shirt collection at Morris Stockholm – where every collar has a character.
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